The alcantara door card inserts are installed on your existing door cards and involve their removal, modification & refitting.

Average time to install: 4 hours


Items supplied in this kit are:

Alcantara Door Card Inserts
DoorCard 1a 

There are 3 main parts to the Alcantara Door Card Inserts installation. These can be broken down into:
(as both doors are the same, only one side will be shown in the instructions below)

1. Removal of the door cards (both left hand (LH) and right hand (RH)
2. Modification of the door cards, including fitting the Alcantara inserts
3. Refitting the door cards to the car


1.
Removal of the door cards

a. Remove the silver door pull insert. This is quite stiff and needs to be pried up from the bottom towards the top, taking care not to damage the surrounding plastic.
wincontrol 5

b. Remove the smooth plastic trim piece from behind the door handle - the easiest way to do this is to pull it off (gently) from the door hinge end of the door by putting your fingers behind the panel and pulling outwards.wincontrol 5

c. Remove the 1x philips / posidrive screw which was concealed by the door handle trim. Remove the 2x philips / posidrive screws holding the door pull in place. Do not try to pull the door pull itself off the door.

wincontrol 3wincontrol 4wincontrol 4



d. Starting at the bottom middle, pull out the 8 puh clips holding the lower edge and both sides of the door card in place. Use your fingers to reach between the rubber door seal and the edge of the plastic door card and pull gently outwards. Do not use too much force.

e. Lift the door card upwards to release it from the door. Be careful to NOT move the door card too far away from the door as it is still connected by wiring and cables.

f. The door handle and it's associated cables will likely ping out of the door card whilst you're holding it - this is absolutely fine and is to be expected. If they don't release on their own, grab the interior door handle end of the two cables and pull them gently away from the door card, angling towards the front of the door. The mechanism will the unclip from the door card.wincontrol 7

g. Finally unplug the two multi-plug connectors (drivers door) or one multi-plug connector (passenger door) going to the window switch pack in the door card.

2. Modification of the door cards, including fitting the Alcantara inserts

a. Use a flat head screwdriver, or other suitable implement, to push in the clip holding the upper part of the door pull to the rest of the door card
DoorCard 3

b. Placing one door card on a suitable flat & clean surface, remove the 24 philips-type screws circled below. This will help in seperating the three parts of the door.

DoorCard 1

c. To allow the parts of the door card to be fully removed, we need to drill or cut two plastic-welded plugs at the lower part of the door card (circled). You may find gentle use of a large drill bit is the easiest way to do this - you can clean up any rough edges afterwards (we will not be replacing these connectors as they are not needed). In the picture below these two plugs have already been drilled and cleaned up aftwerwards.
DoorCard 2

d. It is now necessary to remove the window switches and their surrounding panel. This is easiest if you remove the switches first by unclipping the four plastic lug-type clips holding each switch body the the door card panel and then removing downwards (away from the face of the switch). Next, the metal clips holding the switch surround to the door card panels need to be removed. These clips are strong and awkward to get at initially, but use patience and small flathead screwdrivers to gently push them out. The window switch surrounds will prevent splitting the door card apart below, so take time and care over this step.

e. You should now be able to seperate the three parts of the door card. The bottom section needs to be twisted slightly to allow the plugs drilled out above to seperate properly from the middle part of the door card. Place the top and bottom sections aside as we only need to concentrate on the middle door card section.

f. Use a flat head screwdriver, or similar, to push out the 5 clips holding the armrest to the middle door card section. You should now have a middle door card section which looks as below:


g. Taking care to ensue you have the correct side, lay the alcantara fabric on top of the middle door card section. Each alcantara panel is cut slightly over-size, so you may need to trim it slightly to fit your door card. This is done to allow for small inaccuracies in measurements or placement of the alcantara.

h. Using the lower doorpull hole and cutouts for the armrest to allign the alcantara panel, ensure there is sufficient fabric to cover all the existing vynl. Refit the armrest to help hold the alcantara panel in place whilst you check and align it fully.

i. The next step is to glue the alcantara panel to the door card. Make sure the door card vynl is completely clean and free from any contaminents (grease etc.) We recommend using a spray contact fabric adhesive and gluing the panel in 2 parts - this way you can hold the panel in place with the armrest; glue to top part of the alcantara panel, then, when that is dry (allow at least 30 minutes), remove the armrest and glue the lower part of the alcantara panel.

Items to note whilst doing this:
i. You need to ensure that the returns on the back-side of the door panel part are glued along with the alcantara - this is essential to ensure the alcantara sticks to all parts of the vynl.
ii. Practice stretching the alcantara round the tight cornersat the top of the door panel so you are certain how these will glue.
iii. You need to be very careful not to get glue where it is not wanted.
iv. When glueing the lower part of the alcantara to the door panel, great care is needed to avoid any creases being left in the alcantara.
v. Most contact glues give you only one chance to get the glueing right - please take car, and if you're not sure, take a break and practice with waste material such as waste paper.

j. With all the glueing complete, leave the panel on a flat, clean surface for at least 2 hours to allow the glue to fully cure.

k. Finally we need to re-assemble the 3 parts of the door card, in the reverse of how we removed them. You need to fit all three parts together before the screws can be put back in, but you might find it useful to try fitting the upper and lower edge screws to help keep everything together whilst you screw in the others.


3. Refitting the doorcards to the car

a. Refitting the door cards is the reversal of removal. Firstly plug the multi-plug connectors for the windows back in to their relevant sockets.

b. Re-hang the door cards onto the door by placing the top of the door card above the top of the door metl and pushing down gently. Push in the plastic push rivets around the door sides and bottom, and then re-insert the three screws holding the door panel in place.

c. Finally, replace the two trim pieces you removed from the door card at the beginning.

Your installation is now complete.

To fit a wide-angle camera to an existing reversing camera kit, you need to replace the existing camera with the wide-angle version, and optionally add a suplemental loom to your existing Reversing Camera retrofit kit.

Average time to install: 15 - 20 minutes


Items supplied in this kit are:

Wide-angle camera*OPTIONAL* Supplemental loom
 camera

If the optional Suplemental loom is not included in your kit, it is not needed and instructions relating to it can safely be ignored

All work in this installation takes place in the boot of the car

Work in the Boot

To fit the wide ange camera, you need to replace the existing camera fitted as part of the Reversing Camera retrofit kit with the new wide-angle camera supplied in this kit.


a.
Remove the ELEVEN rivets holding the trim to the boot lid and then place the trim aside




b.
Unplug the red (or black) and yellow plugs linking the existing camera to the boot lid loom. If you have cable tied these cables, remove or undo those ties.


c.
Reach up between the inner and outer skins of the boot lid so that you can feel the back of the existing camera mount. Push in the tab on the accessible (right) side of the camera mount whilst pulling the camera gently away from the bootlid. The existing camera and mount will then release as shown below. Fully withdraw the camera from the boot.




d.
Undo the two screws holding the old camera to it's mount and gently remove the loom from the existing mount.


e.
Route the camera loom for the wide-angle camera back through the mount (the reverse of that done in step d. and install the screws to hold the wide-angle camera to the mount.

Fitting the wide angle camera to the car is now the reverse of the steps taken to remove it. Feed the wide-angle camera's loom back through the boot hole


f.
Feed the wide-angle camera's loom back through the boot hole and push the wide-angle camera's mount home. Route the camera loom as you had previously and connect the red (black) and yellow connectors to their respective plugs.


g.
If your kit contains the optional Supplemental loom, it needs to be connected between the Body to Boot loom and the Extension Loom previously installed with your original Reversing Camera kit, as circled below. The supplemental loom can only be fitted one way around and the 4-pin connectors make it obvious which way to install it.


h.
The installation is now complete. Test that the new camera works as expected, and then replace boot lid liner and secure with ELEVEN plastic rivets.

The airbag warning panel replacement is installed in place of the existing warning panel. It is accessed by dismantling some of the lower dash panels.

Average time to install: 10 - 30 minutes


Items supplied in this kit are:

Airbag warning panel replacement
 airbag abarth


All work in this installation takes place inside the car and involves items in the centre console. You will need a large philips type screwdriver, a small flat head screwdriver and a T10 Torx screwdriver.

Work in the Car

To fit the airbag warning panel replacement, we need to remove the airbag warning panel from the car and then replace the display screen within it.


a.
Gently squeeze the outside edges of the trim piece surrounding the airbag warning panel and pull it forward towards you. There are clips on each side of the inside of the trim piece which will release, allowing you to fully remove the trim.
1


b.
There are two screws holding the airbag warning panel into the car (one each side of the panel) - use the large philips screwdriver to remove these, which will then allow you to pull the airbag warning panel away from it's location in the car.
2

c.
There is an electrical connector on the back right hand side of the airbag warning panel as you look at it. Pull the airbag warning panel away form the car and use the small flat head screwdriver to help release the clip holding the connector in. It may feel quite tight on the wiring, but there is sufficient spare wire to be able to release the connector without too much trouble, Once released, you will be able to fully remove the airbag warning panel.
3


d.
There are two T10 Torx screws at the back of the airbag warning panel - use the T10 screwdriver to remove them.
4


e. Unclip the three clips on the bottom and three cips on the top of the airbag warning panel. This will allow the two halves of the panel to come apart, allowing access to the warning screen inside.
5

f. Use the small flat head screwdriver or your finger to help release the central clip holding the airbag panel into it's surround. It should release fairly easily.
6


g. Place the replacement airbag panel in the housing and ensure it sits tight against the front of the airbag panel cover. Push the panel so it clips into place.
7

h. Re-assemble the warning panel, making sure the six clips connect back together, and replace the two Torx screws.


i. Finally re-install the airbag warning panel in the car. Installation is the exact opposite of removal, consisting of re-connecting the electrical connector, screwing the airbag panel back into place, and finally replacing the trim surround. When installing the trim, make sure there are no bulges at the rear of the trim piece, as sometimes the clips can be pushed out wide under the lower dash. Keep your hands on each side of the trim piece whilst installing it to avoid this happening.

The wireless charger is fitted underneath the rubber part of the centre console shelf, in front of the gearstick.

Average time to install: 30 - 60 minutes


Items supplied in this kit are:

Wireless charger coil
USB cable
 camerausb
Car USB adaptor
 
 camera 

All work in this installation takes place inside the car and involves items in the centre console. For best effect (to avoid any noticeable bumps under the rubber mat), it is advisable to modify one of the centre console panels using files, sanders etc. This is not completely necessary for the installation to work if you do not feel comfortable doing this.

Work in the Car

To fit the wireless charger, we first need to remove parts of the centre console trim. We will then optionally modify a hidden part of the trim; fit the wireless charging loop; install wiring; andf re-assemble the centre console.


a.
Remove the gearlever knob by unscrewing in an anti-clockwise direction


b.
wireless 5 Pull up on the silver part of the gearlever surround by gripping the inside edge of this part on each side, where the gearlever gator meets the surround. You have to pull relatively hard, but eventually the trim will release. If the front of the entertainment contol panel lifts up, merely push it down again whilst holding up the gearlever surround. When both clips are free, remove the surround panel by pulling gently up and backwards.

c.
Turn this trim piece over and remove the rubber mat by uncliping the five rubber tangs securing it to the front of the gearlever surround. There is a piece of double sided tape holding the curved rear edge to the gearlever surround - gently pull the rubber away from this tape until it is completely removed.


d.
If you are going to modify the centre console panels to allow for the best fit, it is necessary to remove the front plastic panel from the gearlever surround. This is held on by two plastic (white) clips - gently pry first one side then the other apart until you have the front piece seperated from the gearlever surround.






wireless 1
e. Using a Dremel or similar device, remove some of the plastic on this front panel piece so that it somewhat resembles the picture below. You do not need to remove quite as much material as shown in this test piece; you are merely trying to create the 3 or 4 mm clearance needed between the plastic base (the piece you are modifying) and the rubber mat which sits on top of it

f. If you are not happy modifying this panel (as shown below); you can sfely ignore these steps and proceed to the next step.

 

g.wireless 2Re-connect the two panals which we previously disassembled, so that they look something like the picture to the right. This is the last step of bodywork modification.

h. We now need to install the wireless charging coil on top of the front plastic panel, ensuring that the coil is clear of the forward central rectangular hole in this panel (which is where one of the rubber mat's clips fits). Place the coil in place and ensure it clears this hole, as indicated below. wireless 3






 

 

 

 

 wireless 4
i. Once the coil is in place, secure it with a piece of double sided tape below it; then refit the rubber mat over the top of the  plastic. Ensure the wires from the coil pass either side of the rubber mat's middle fixing, and then do up the rest of the rubber clips. Finally attach the circuuit board to the underside of the whole assembly.

 



j.
wireless 4 The coil is now fitted to the centre console panel, so all that remains is to run a USB power cable from the centre console to the closest power source. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways, but I chose to route the cable under the centre console front trim so that it exits in the passenger side footwell next to the car's built in auxilery power socket (cigarette lighter socket). I then plugged a car  socket to USB converter into this socket to provide the needed USB power connection.

k. Finally, re-install the centre console shelf into the car, ensuring you plug in the USB cable at both ends, then turn the ignition on and check that your phone starts charging as expected.

If you have any problems with this installation, please see our FAQ articles relating to it.

 

 

 

 

The Android Auto / Apple CarPlay kit is installed by updating the firmware on your car's entertainment system and by installing new USB hardware. It involves dismantling the upper and lower dash panels to fit.

Average time to install: 2 - 3 hours


Items supplied in this kit are:

Replacement USB HubUSB Hub to CMU Cables
Sticky foam sheets 
 

There are 4 main parts to the Android Auto / CarPlay installation. These can be broken down into:

1. Updating the CMU firmware
2. Replacing the USB Hub
3. Running new USB Hub to CMU Cables
4. Testing & re-assembling the car


1.
Updating the CMU firmware

The first thing we're going to do is perform an upgrade to firmware v.70. There's a few things we need to do as pre-requisites - these are needed because Mazda have, in their latest firmwares, taken steps to block users from modifying their CMUs. It is very important that you follow the next steps in order and do not skip any of them, even if some seem to be repetitions of steps previously taken.

a. Firstly we need to know what firmware version the CMU is running at the moment. Go get this infomation, go to the Settings > System > About > Version screen. Your car is likely to say 56.00.530 if it is an European car or 59.0.0.524 if it is a North American car. So long as it says one of these two numbers, we're good to proceed to the next step. However, if the firmware version on your car is anything higher than v 59.0.0.xxx, you'll probably need to stop here and seek further advice.

b. Download the software we'll be using. We'll need the following applications / files  to fully update to version 70 & retain our Fiat / Mazda branding.

1) MZD-AIO-TI application from mazdatweaks.com

2) Version 70.0.100 firmware - European firmware / OR / North American firmware

3) Mazda -> Fiat customisations called MazdaToFiatV70AIO

4)

We'll also need at least one USB memory stick - ensure it is larger than 4GB in size and formatted in FAT32

c. Install the MZD-AIO-TI application on your computer and launch it when installed. After going through the welcome screens, you will see a screen featurig lots of options.

1) In the top left corner of the screen, click on the Autorun & Recovery option.On the next screen, click on the Compile Autorun icon at the top middle of the screen and then ensure that only the Install ID7_Recovery Scripts Pack option is ticked. Then click OK.

2) Insert a blank, FAT32 formatted, USB memory stick in to yorur computer and allow MZD-AIO-TI to copy the files it compiled above to the memory stick.

d. Go to the car and press the start button *WITHOUT* pressing the clutch or brake pedal to put the car into accessory mode. Insert the USB stick into one of the USB ports in the car and wait for the CMU to display an installation screen. Follow the instructions and allow the ID7_Recovery scripts to be installed into the CMU. Once the installation has completed, the CMU will reboot. Allow this to happen, removing the USB stick when told it is safe to do so.

e. To ensure the step above worked, as it is probably the single most important step in this entire process, re-insert the same USB memory stick into one of the car's USB ports again and wait for the installer to start. This time you are looking for the installer to say "Update" rather than "Install" - this iindicates that the ID7_Recovery script has already been installed. If you do not see Update, do not go any futher at this time!

f. Now is the time to install the actual firmware update. This is quite a long process, but we have produced some instructions to help carry it out. It is important to read all the instructions before starting, especially taking note of which steps need to be ignored. I strongly suggest you print these seperate instructions and take them to the car with you. 

...ROUGHLY 90 MINUTES LATER...

g. Having installed the firmware update and ensured your firmware is now on vesion 70.00.100 as indicated above, the final part of the update process is to re-Fiat-ize / re-Abarth-ize your firmware and to re-enable the (currently broken) Navigation application. To do this, you will need to copy all the files from the MazdaToFiatV70AIO file downloaded previously to a balnk USB memory stick and install this in to your car's CMU.

h. Start the installation process in the same way as was done in step 4) above. Read al the instructions and options displayed and choose either the Fiat or Abarth options presented.

i. Once all the updates have installed and the CMU rebooted, you should now see the Fiat / Abarth logos rather than any Mazda ones; and your navigation application should work perfectly.

2. Replacing the USB Hub

The next step is to install the wiring looms required to enable the car to recognise the camera. This work mostly takes place within the car's cabin, with some later in the boot.

a. Remove the gearlever knob by unscrewing in an anti-clockwise direction, or pulling straight up if your car has automatic transmission.

b. Gently squeeze the outside edges of the trim piece surrounding the airbag warning panel and pull it forward towards you. There are clips on each side of the inside of the trim piece which will release, allowing you to fully remove the trim.

c. Pull up on the silver part of the gearlever surround by gripping the inside edge of this part on each side, where the gearlever gator meets the surround. You have to pull relatively hard, but eventually the trim will release. If the front of the entertainment contol panel lifts up, merely push it down again whilst holding up the gearlever surround. When both clips are free, remove the surround panel by pulling gently up and backwards.

d. Remove the two philips screws securing the long part of the centre console to the car, and pull up slightly on the front of this piece, where the screws were.

e. We can now remove the two side trims - gently but firmly pull the side trims away from the USB Hub / airbag warning panel assembly, by pulling at right angles to the length of the car. Then unclip them from the long part of the centre console by pushing them down whilst pushing the centre console trim up where they join. Finally you can pull them back slightly to remove them from the dash.

f. The unit holding the USB Hub should now be free to move, secured only by the cables attached to the back of it. Remove the cables one by one so you can take the USB hub out of the car completely.

g. The USB Hub is held into it's unit b four plastic clips; using a small flathead screwdriver or similar, gently work these clips free and push the USB Hub out from the back of the console.

h. Fit the replacement USB Hub into it's console by pushing it in, in the opposite way to which the old one was removed. Do not re-fit the carrier to the car at this stage, as we now need to run the new USB Hub to CMU cables.

3. Running new USB Hub to CMU Cables

The new USB Hub requires two new cables to connect it to the CMU. In this section we will dismantle the upper dash panels and remove the CMU so we can prepare to run the cables from the Hub to the CMU.

a. Remove the plastic sill cover by pulling it up - it is only held in by plastic clips. Not much force is required and the clips will not break as long as pulled directly upwards.

b. Pull the bottom of the lower door seal rubber off the sill up to the level of the A-pillar trim. This will get removed later but can be left to dangle out the way for now.

c. Having done this, remove the plastic rivet from the side (near the front) of the fusebox cover trim piece in the passenger footwell. Use finger nails or similar to pull the centre of the rivet a few mm out, then wiggle the entire rivet out.

d. Pull the fusebox cover trim out by pulling it straight back towards the passenger seat/ There is a hidden, captive, plastic rivet which needs to be pulled in the correct direction to avoid damaging it.

e. With the fuse cover removed, undo the 10mm bolt holding in the lower dashboard trim.

f. Pull the A-pillar trim away from the A-pillar near the top of the windscreen (a hidden plastic clip); then pull the trim upwards and backwards from the rest of the dashboard trim. There is a short speaker cable connected to the A-pillar trim, so be careful here. The A-pillar trim will not immediately come loose as it is held in by a "key piece" of trim, located between the A-pillar, upper & lower dash trims. Gently pull the A-pillar trim rearwards and towards the centre of the car until it releases from the key piece.

g. Pull the lower dashboard trim upwards and outwards towards the rear of the car. Use the base of the lower trim panel initially and then pull the horizontal section where it stretches across the dash.

Once removed, you can pry the "key piece" to loose, but it may help to use a small flat-head screwdriver to push the plastic clips of this free from the surrounding trim. Be careful not to damage these clips as thy hold everything else solid on re-assembly.

h. The "piano black" (on Abarth) trim piece which sits between the upper and lower dash panels now needs to be removed. This is held in place by some very strong plastic clips so a fair amount of force is required to remove it, but care should be taken to not twist or damage this panel. Start at the thin (door) end of the panel and use fingers or a small flat-head screwdriver to pull the top and bottom edges out, towards the rear of the car. Work along the panel, trying to keep top and bottom from twisting and pull straight back. Disconnect the white electrical connector and place out of the way when removed.

i. The top of the heater control panel needs to be pulled slightly free; this is to give a little more wiggle room for other components. Pull towards the rear of the car until the top clips come loose. You do not need to remove them fully. Likewise pull the trim around the Start/Stop button forwards in line with the heater surround.

j. Pull the top of the instrument cluster surround forward. Concentrate on the passenger side of the cluster surround (i.e. the centre of the car). Again, this only needs to be loosened, not removed completely.

k. Undo the 10mm bolt holding the CMU into the rear of the dash assembly.

Having done so, pull the CMU and the associated trim piece forward to release the CMU. A fair bit of force may be needed here, but be careful not to damage the cluster trim whilst pulling the CMU forward. (this is why we loosened the cluster trim earlier)

l. There is a rubber spacer which may well fall off the back of the CMU when it is removed - make sure you retrieve this and push it back onto it's support underneath the CMU.

m. Unplug the four connectors from the back of the CMU and place it to one side.

4. Connecting, testing and putting everything back together

Finally, we need to connect all remaining plugs, re-attach the CMU, test functionality and refit the all the interior trims.


From the previous steps, you should have the reversing camera loom installed throughout the car and have from front to back:

1. Piggy-back loom plugged in to one of the car's CMU plugs via a white multi-pin socket

2. Extension loom plugged in to the piggy-back loom via a 4-pin plug / socket

3. Boot-to-body loom plugged in to the extension loom via a 4-pin plug / socket

4. Camera plugged in to boot-to-body loom via red and yellow plugs / sockets

a. First, plug the piggy-back loom in to the CMU, followed by plugging in all remaining car plugs to the CMU (they all only fit in one socket). Do not replace the CMU in the car but balance it so you can test the functionality of the CMU

b. Turn the car's ignition on to position 2 (lights etc. On, but DO NOT start the car) and wait for the CMU to fully boot up. Put the gear lever into reverse and the CMU should swap to the camera view. This should also be accompanied by the normal warning beep.

c. If the CMU does NOT swap to the camera view:

1. Turn the ignition OFF

2. Disconnect the middle multi-plug cable (not the piggy back cable) from the back of the CMU

3. Double check ALL connectors are fully connected. Unplug and re-plug if necessary

4. Wait 5 minutes to ensure the CMU is fully powered down

5. Plug the multi-plug cable back in to the CMU

6. If these steps do not work, contact your retailer for more help

d. Presuming the CMU correctly swapped to show the camera in step (4-b), turn the ignition OFF and continue to rebuild the car's interior.

e. Firstly, ensure the extension loom is secured by cable tie etc. across the lower part of the dash and down past the fusebox.

f. Trim re-assembly is essentially the opposite procedure to dismantling. The first and hardest part is getting the CMU to push back into it's mounting hole correctly. Ensure the cables at the back (especially the piggy-back loom) are not blocking it sliding back, and then push the CMU in horizontally (the angle is quite critical), whilst also making sure it clears the instrument cluster surround, which you may need to lift slightly to help the CMU slide backwards.

g. Once the CMU is firmly back in place (it should click into place) re-insert the M10 bolt which secures it, ensuring the metal bracket is fully home.

h. Push the instrument cluster trim back into position - it pushes down and forwards (towards the windscreen) and will click when each clip re-engages. Run your hands right round the cluster surround to ensure all clips are fully home.

i. Push the clips of the top of the heater controls back home - these may have dropped slightly so may need persuading into their sockets, depending on how far you pulled them out.

j. Re-attach the electrical connector for the hazard light on the piano black trim strip and then start pushing this back in to place. Again, ensure this goes in completely horizontally and push fairly firmly to make sure all the clips fully re-engage.

k. Re-attach the suede lower dash panel - support the larger part above the passenger footwell whilst initially clipping in the end nearest the dashboard. Avoid twisting the panel as you push the clips in; and work along from the middle of the car to the passenger edge. When all clips are secure, push up slightly on the bottom of the lower dash panel whilst re-inserting the M10 bolt above the fusebox.

l. Refit the lower door seal rubber and push it up as high as it seems to want to go. The bend in the rubber and a slight cut out in the door pillar trim will help you locate it. Do not bother pushing the lower part in completely as we'll need to pull this off again in a minute.

m. Re-connect the speaker to it's housing in the A-pillar trim and then retrofit the trim. It slides forward and down at the base of the trim and should re-fit fairly easily. Look at the profile of the clips to help you align this correctly.

n. Push the lower door seal rubber up as high as it now wants to go and ensure the bottom part is NOT attached the door aperture.

o. Re-fit the fusebox cover - this pushes forward into place past the door seal rubber and secures with a plastic rivet and two small built-in clips which sit over and flush to the lower door aperture seam. Re-fit the plastic rivet in the side of the fusebox trim and push the inner part fully home. Finally re-fit the rest of the lower door rubber seal.

p. Re-fit the "key-piece" removed in step (1-f) into the gap between the A-pillar trim and lower dash panel. This piece should clip in fairly easily, but has to be aligned carefully. This piece should lock all the front dashboard trim pieces together.

q. Push the lower side trim (behind the seat) back into position against the back of the door opening, then pop the side trim back over the top of this and re-fit the smaller side trim plastic rivet. Push the centre piece fully home to secure these trim pieces.

r. Refit the sill plastic cover by pushing it down against it's clips. You should now be finished re-fitting trim inside the car, so move to the boot.

s. Replace the metal fuel line protector and re-fit the FIVE M10 bolts securing this to the car.

t. Place the passenger side trim in the boot. ONLY replace the plastic rivet at the very back of the boot (nearest bumper) which will be hidden by the hard plastic boot lock cover when we re-install that.

u. Place the front boot trim in the boot. DO NOT put any plastic rivets back in yet.

v. Place the boot floor trim in the boot. Again, DO NOT put any plastic rivets back in yet.

w. Reconnect the boot light electrical plug, and place the hard plastic boot lock cover back in the car. Re-insert the FOUR plastic rivets securing this piece.

x. Replace all other plastic rivets in all boot trim panels, remembering the TWO plain rivets which sit at the front of the boot floor trim.

y. Hold up the boot lid trim and replace the ELEVEN plastic rivets holding this in place. You should now have replaced all trim in the boot.

All trim pieces should now be back in the car; with all cables connected, secured and tested.
Finally, go and MAKE A CUP OF TEA to celebrate your now-working reversing camera :)

[UPDATED] The window controller V2 is installed within the drivers side door, behind the door card. The unit is self contained and doesn't require any modifications to existing parts or wiring

Average time to install: 30 minutes


Items supplied in this kit are:

Window controller box
Window switch loom
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Remote control loom
 
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All work in this installation takes place inside the car and involves fitting items within the drivers side door. No wiring or component modifications are necessary for this installation.

Work in the Car

To fit the window controler v2, we first need to remove the drivers door card, whcih is the plastic internal facing of the door.

a. Remove the silver door pull insert. This is quite stiff and needs to be pried up from the bottom towards the top, taking care not to damage the surrounding plastic.
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b. Remove the smooth plastic trim piece from behind the door handle - the easiest way to do this is to pull it off (gently) from the door hinge end of the door by putting your fingers behind the panel and pulling outwards.wincontrol 5

c. Remove the 1x philips / posidrive screw which was concealed by the door handle trim. Remove the 2x philips / posidrive screws holding the door pull in place. Do not try to pull the door pull itself off the door.

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d. Starting at the bottom middle, pull out the 8 puh clips holding the lower edge and both sides of the door card in place. Use your fingers to reach between the rubber door seal and the edge of the plastic door card and pull gently outwards. Do not use too much force.

e. Lift the door card upwards to release it from the door. Be careful to NOT move the door card too far away from the door as it is still connected by wiring and cables.

f. The door handle and it's associated cables will likely ping out of the door card whilst you're holding it - this is absolutely fine and is to be expected. If they don't release on their own, grab the interior door handle end of the two cables and pull them gently away from the door card, angling towards the front of the door. The mechanism will the unclip from the door card.wincontrol 7

g. Finally unplug the two multi-plug connectors going to the window switch pack in the door card. Now place the door card aside, being careful not to scratch or damage it.

h. Plug the black multiplug of the window switch loom into the window controller box and then plug the two white multiplugs on that loom into the window switch pack in the door card. Use the supplied sticky-back velcro strip to stick the window controller box to the inside of the door card.

i. Unplug the white multiplug connector from the door body (it may help to release the clip holding the plug in place if you press it with a small screwdriver). Now tap into the GREEN and YELLOW wires on this plug using the wiretap connectors on the remote control loom. The RED wire of the remote control loom needs to connect to the GREEN wire on the multiplug connector; and the BLACK wire of the remote control loom needs to connect to the YELLOW wire on the multiplug connector; as shown below. When the wires have been connected, plug the multiplug connector back in to the socket in the door.
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j. Route the long part of the remote control loom (with the two pin plug attached) along the existing door wiring towards where the window swtich plugs are dangling from the door.wincontrol 11

k. All the wiring installation is now complete. The last step is to reconnect the door's window plugs and the new remote loom plug into their respective sockets in the window switch loom. Each plug can only go in one socket and can only go one way around.

l. Finally re-hand the door card onto the door by placing the top of the door card above the top of the door metl and pushing down gently. Do NOT fully re-attach the door card until we have tested everything works correctly.

m. You may find it easier to close the drivers door from the outside and then get in the passenger door for this next bit as you can't pull on the drivers door card at this time. Once in the car with both doors closed, turn the ignition on by pressing the start button twice (there's no need to start the engine) and follow the following initiation instructions precisely. This is very important to ensure the windows operate correctly.

   1) Press and hold the window down button for the drivers side window until the window is fully down.

2)
Press and hold the window up button for the drivers side window until the window is fully closed. Hold the button in the up position for at least 2 seconds once the window is closed.

3) Press and hold the window down button for the drivers side window until the window is fully down.

4) Press and hold the window up button for the drivers side window until the window is fully closed. Hold the button in the up position for at least 2 seconds once the window is closed.

n. Now we need to program the window controller with our preference for when the roof is opened. The available options are to have the windows fully open when the roof is opened; or to have the windows fully close when the roof is opened. To do this follow the following instructions.

   1) Unlock the roof and pull partially back. The windows will drop part way.

2)
Using the drivers side window switch, press the window DOWN button momentarily if you want to have the windows OPEN fully when the roof is opened; or press the window UP button momentarily if you want the windows to CLOSE fully when the roof is opened.

3) Push the roof fully open and ensure it latches in place. The window controller will now remember your preference and fully open or close the windows.

4)
You can now close the roof and should see the windows go all the way back up.

o. The last test we need to perform is locking and unlocking the car. Turn the ignition off and exit the car, closing both doors fully. Now lock the car with your keyfob and ensure both doors lock fully. (use both door handles to make sure they are locked).

p. Presuming the above steps all worked correctly, everything is now fully programmed and tested. We can now put the door card fully back together. The door card should already be hanging in the correct place, resting on the top of the door inner. Ensure the door card is pushed vertically down as far as it wants to go, then working around the edges of the door card, push each of the 8 push clips back into it's locating hole. You may need to gently wiggle a couple of the clips with your fingers to get them to engage.

q. Replace the three philips / posidrive screws which secure the door card to the door. Ensure the shorter screw goes in the hole behind the door handle and the two longer ones go in the door pull.

r. Finally, replace the two trim pieces you removed from the door card at the beginning.

Your installation is now complete.