The Android Auto / Apple CarPlay kit is installed by updating the firmware on your car's entertainment system and by installing new USB hardware. It involves dismantling the upper and lower dash panels to fit.

Average time to install: 2 - 3 hours


Items supplied in this kit are:

Replacement USB HubUSB Hub to CMU Cables
Sticky foam sheets 
 

There are 4 main parts to the Android Auto / CarPlay installation. These can be broken down into:

1. Updating the CMU firmware
2. Replacing the USB Hub
3. Running new USB Hub to CMU Cables
4. Testing & re-assembling the car


1.
Updating the CMU firmware

The first thing we're going to do is perform an upgrade to firmware v.70. There's a few things we need to do as pre-requisites - these are needed because Mazda have, in their latest firmwares, taken steps to block users from modifying their CMUs. It is very important that you follow the next steps in order and do not skip any of them, even if some seem to be repetitions of steps previously taken.

a. Firstly we need to know what firmware version the CMU is running at the moment. Go get this infomation, go to the Settings > System > About > Version screen. Your car is likely to say 56.00.530 if it is an European car or 59.0.0.524 if it is a North American car. So long as it says one of these two numbers, we're good to proceed to the next step. However, if the firmware version on your car is anything higher than v 59.0.0.xxx, you'll probably need to stop here and seek further advice.

b. Download the software we'll be using. We'll need the following applications / files  to fully update to version 70 & retain our Fiat / Mazda branding.

1) MZD-AIO-TI application from mazdatweaks.com

2) Version 70.0.100 firmware - European firmware / OR / North American firmware

3) Mazda -> Fiat customisations called MazdaToFiatV70AIO

4)

We'll also need at least one USB memory stick - ensure it is larger than 4GB in size and formatted in FAT32

c. Install the MZD-AIO-TI application on your computer and launch it when installed. After going through the welcome screens, you will see a screen featurig lots of options.

1) In the top left corner of the screen, click on the Autorun & Recovery option.On the next screen, click on the Compile Autorun icon at the top middle of the screen and then ensure that only the Install ID7_Recovery Scripts Pack option is ticked. Then click OK.

2) Insert a blank, FAT32 formatted, USB memory stick in to yorur computer and allow MZD-AIO-TI to copy the files it compiled above to the memory stick.

d. Go to the car and press the start button *WITHOUT* pressing the clutch or brake pedal to put the car into accessory mode. Insert the USB stick into one of the USB ports in the car and wait for the CMU to display an installation screen. Follow the instructions and allow the ID7_Recovery scripts to be installed into the CMU. Once the installation has completed, the CMU will reboot. Allow this to happen, removing the USB stick when told it is safe to do so.

e. To ensure the step above worked, as it is probably the single most important step in this entire process, re-insert the same USB memory stick into one of the car's USB ports again and wait for the installer to start. This time you are looking for the installer to say "Update" rather than "Install" - this iindicates that the ID7_Recovery script has already been installed. If you do not see Update, do not go any futher at this time!

f. Now is the time to install the actual firmware update. This is quite a long process, but we have produced some instructions to help carry it out. It is important to read all the instructions before starting, especially taking note of which steps need to be ignored. I strongly suggest you print these seperate instructions and take them to the car with you. 

...ROUGHLY 90 MINUTES LATER...

g. Having installed the firmware update and ensured your firmware is now on vesion 70.00.100 as indicated above, the final part of the update process is to re-Fiat-ize / re-Abarth-ize your firmware and to re-enable the (currently broken) Navigation application. To do this, you will need to copy all the files from the MazdaToFiatV70AIO file downloaded previously to a balnk USB memory stick and install this in to your car's CMU.

h. Start the installation process in the same way as was done in step 4) above. Read al the instructions and options displayed and choose either the Fiat or Abarth options presented.

i. Once all the updates have installed and the CMU rebooted, you should now see the Fiat / Abarth logos rather than any Mazda ones; and your navigation application should work perfectly.

2. Replacing the USB Hub

The next step is to install the wiring looms required to enable the car to recognise the camera. This work mostly takes place within the car's cabin, with some later in the boot.

a. Remove the gearlever knob by unscrewing in an anti-clockwise direction, or pulling straight up if your car has automatic transmission.

b. Gently squeeze the outside edges of the trim piece surrounding the airbag warning panel and pull it forward towards you. There are clips on each side of the inside of the trim piece which will release, allowing you to fully remove the trim.

c. Pull up on the silver part of the gearlever surround by gripping the inside edge of this part on each side, where the gearlever gator meets the surround. You have to pull relatively hard, but eventually the trim will release. If the front of the entertainment contol panel lifts up, merely push it down again whilst holding up the gearlever surround. When both clips are free, remove the surround panel by pulling gently up and backwards.

d. Remove the two philips screws securing the long part of the centre console to the car, and pull up slightly on the front of this piece, where the screws were.

e. We can now remove the two side trims - gently but firmly pull the side trims away from the USB Hub / airbag warning panel assembly, by pulling at right angles to the length of the car. Then unclip them from the long part of the centre console by pushing them down whilst pushing the centre console trim up where they join. Finally you can pull them back slightly to remove them from the dash.

f. The unit holding the USB Hub should now be free to move, secured only by the cables attached to the back of it. Remove the cables one by one so you can take the USB hub out of the car completely.

g. The USB Hub is held into it's unit b four plastic clips; using a small flathead screwdriver or similar, gently work these clips free and push the USB Hub out from the back of the console.

h. Fit the replacement USB Hub into it's console by pushing it in, in the opposite way to which the old one was removed. Do not re-fit the carrier to the car at this stage, as we now need to run the new USB Hub to CMU cables.

3. Running new USB Hub to CMU Cables

The new USB Hub requires two new cables to connect it to the CMU. In this section we will dismantle the upper dash panels and remove the CMU so we can prepare to run the cables from the Hub to the CMU.

a. Remove the plastic sill cover by pulling it up - it is only held in by plastic clips. Not much force is required and the clips will not break as long as pulled directly upwards.

b. Pull the bottom of the lower door seal rubber off the sill up to the level of the A-pillar trim. This will get removed later but can be left to dangle out the way for now.

c. Having done this, remove the plastic rivet from the side (near the front) of the fusebox cover trim piece in the passenger footwell. Use finger nails or similar to pull the centre of the rivet a few mm out, then wiggle the entire rivet out.

d. Pull the fusebox cover trim out by pulling it straight back towards the passenger seat/ There is a hidden, captive, plastic rivet which needs to be pulled in the correct direction to avoid damaging it.

e. With the fuse cover removed, undo the 10mm bolt holding in the lower dashboard trim.

f. Pull the A-pillar trim away from the A-pillar near the top of the windscreen (a hidden plastic clip); then pull the trim upwards and backwards from the rest of the dashboard trim. There is a short speaker cable connected to the A-pillar trim, so be careful here. The A-pillar trim will not immediately come loose as it is held in by a "key piece" of trim, located between the A-pillar, upper & lower dash trims. Gently pull the A-pillar trim rearwards and towards the centre of the car until it releases from the key piece.

g. Pull the lower dashboard trim upwards and outwards towards the rear of the car. Use the base of the lower trim panel initially and then pull the horizontal section where it stretches across the dash.

Once removed, you can pry the "key piece" to loose, but it may help to use a small flat-head screwdriver to push the plastic clips of this free from the surrounding trim. Be careful not to damage these clips as thy hold everything else solid on re-assembly.

h. The "piano black" (on Abarth) trim piece which sits between the upper and lower dash panels now needs to be removed. This is held in place by some very strong plastic clips so a fair amount of force is required to remove it, but care should be taken to not twist or damage this panel. Start at the thin (door) end of the panel and use fingers or a small flat-head screwdriver to pull the top and bottom edges out, towards the rear of the car. Work along the panel, trying to keep top and bottom from twisting and pull straight back. Disconnect the white electrical connector and place out of the way when removed.

i. The top of the heater control panel needs to be pulled slightly free; this is to give a little more wiggle room for other components. Pull towards the rear of the car until the top clips come loose. You do not need to remove them fully. Likewise pull the trim around the Start/Stop button forwards in line with the heater surround.

j. Pull the top of the instrument cluster surround forward. Concentrate on the passenger side of the cluster surround (i.e. the centre of the car). Again, this only needs to be loosened, not removed completely.

k. Undo the 10mm bolt holding the CMU into the rear of the dash assembly.

Having done so, pull the CMU and the associated trim piece forward to release the CMU. A fair bit of force may be needed here, but be careful not to damage the cluster trim whilst pulling the CMU forward. (this is why we loosened the cluster trim earlier)

l. There is a rubber spacer which may well fall off the back of the CMU when it is removed - make sure you retrieve this and push it back onto it's support underneath the CMU.

m. Unplug the four connectors from the back of the CMU and place it to one side.

4. Connecting, testing and putting everything back together

Finally, we need to connect all remaining plugs, re-attach the CMU, test functionality and refit the all the interior trims.


From the previous steps, you should have the reversing camera loom installed throughout the car and have from front to back:

1. Piggy-back loom plugged in to one of the car's CMU plugs via a white multi-pin socket

2. Extension loom plugged in to the piggy-back loom via a 4-pin plug / socket

3. Boot-to-body loom plugged in to the extension loom via a 4-pin plug / socket

4. Camera plugged in to boot-to-body loom via red and yellow plugs / sockets

a. First, plug the piggy-back loom in to the CMU, followed by plugging in all remaining car plugs to the CMU (they all only fit in one socket). Do not replace the CMU in the car but balance it so you can test the functionality of the CMU

b. Turn the car's ignition on to position 2 (lights etc. On, but DO NOT start the car) and wait for the CMU to fully boot up. Put the gear lever into reverse and the CMU should swap to the camera view. This should also be accompanied by the normal warning beep.

c. If the CMU does NOT swap to the camera view:

1. Turn the ignition OFF

2. Disconnect the middle multi-plug cable (not the piggy back cable) from the back of the CMU

3. Double check ALL connectors are fully connected. Unplug and re-plug if necessary

4. Wait 5 minutes to ensure the CMU is fully powered down

5. Plug the multi-plug cable back in to the CMU

6. If these steps do not work, contact your retailer for more help

d. Presuming the CMU correctly swapped to show the camera in step (4-b), turn the ignition OFF and continue to rebuild the car's interior.

e. Firstly, ensure the extension loom is secured by cable tie etc. across the lower part of the dash and down past the fusebox.

f. Trim re-assembly is essentially the opposite procedure to dismantling. The first and hardest part is getting the CMU to push back into it's mounting hole correctly. Ensure the cables at the back (especially the piggy-back loom) are not blocking it sliding back, and then push the CMU in horizontally (the angle is quite critical), whilst also making sure it clears the instrument cluster surround, which you may need to lift slightly to help the CMU slide backwards.

g. Once the CMU is firmly back in place (it should click into place) re-insert the M10 bolt which secures it, ensuring the metal bracket is fully home.

h. Push the instrument cluster trim back into position - it pushes down and forwards (towards the windscreen) and will click when each clip re-engages. Run your hands right round the cluster surround to ensure all clips are fully home.

i. Push the clips of the top of the heater controls back home - these may have dropped slightly so may need persuading into their sockets, depending on how far you pulled them out.

j. Re-attach the electrical connector for the hazard light on the piano black trim strip and then start pushing this back in to place. Again, ensure this goes in completely horizontally and push fairly firmly to make sure all the clips fully re-engage.

k. Re-attach the suede lower dash panel - support the larger part above the passenger footwell whilst initially clipping in the end nearest the dashboard. Avoid twisting the panel as you push the clips in; and work along from the middle of the car to the passenger edge. When all clips are secure, push up slightly on the bottom of the lower dash panel whilst re-inserting the M10 bolt above the fusebox.

l. Refit the lower door seal rubber and push it up as high as it seems to want to go. The bend in the rubber and a slight cut out in the door pillar trim will help you locate it. Do not bother pushing the lower part in completely as we'll need to pull this off again in a minute.

m. Re-connect the speaker to it's housing in the A-pillar trim and then retrofit the trim. It slides forward and down at the base of the trim and should re-fit fairly easily. Look at the profile of the clips to help you align this correctly.

n. Push the lower door seal rubber up as high as it now wants to go and ensure the bottom part is NOT attached the door aperture.

o. Re-fit the fusebox cover - this pushes forward into place past the door seal rubber and secures with a plastic rivet and two small built-in clips which sit over and flush to the lower door aperture seam. Re-fit the plastic rivet in the side of the fusebox trim and push the inner part fully home. Finally re-fit the rest of the lower door rubber seal.

p. Re-fit the "key-piece" removed in step (1-f) into the gap between the A-pillar trim and lower dash panel. This piece should clip in fairly easily, but has to be aligned carefully. This piece should lock all the front dashboard trim pieces together.

q. Push the lower side trim (behind the seat) back into position against the back of the door opening, then pop the side trim back over the top of this and re-fit the smaller side trim plastic rivet. Push the centre piece fully home to secure these trim pieces.

r. Refit the sill plastic cover by pushing it down against it's clips. You should now be finished re-fitting trim inside the car, so move to the boot.

s. Replace the metal fuel line protector and re-fit the FIVE M10 bolts securing this to the car.

t. Place the passenger side trim in the boot. ONLY replace the plastic rivet at the very back of the boot (nearest bumper) which will be hidden by the hard plastic boot lock cover when we re-install that.

u. Place the front boot trim in the boot. DO NOT put any plastic rivets back in yet.

v. Place the boot floor trim in the boot. Again, DO NOT put any plastic rivets back in yet.

w. Reconnect the boot light electrical plug, and place the hard plastic boot lock cover back in the car. Re-insert the FOUR plastic rivets securing this piece.

x. Replace all other plastic rivets in all boot trim panels, remembering the TWO plain rivets which sit at the front of the boot floor trim.

y. Hold up the boot lid trim and replace the ELEVEN plastic rivets holding this in place. You should now have replaced all trim in the boot.

All trim pieces should now be back in the car; with all cables connected, secured and tested.
Finally, go and MAKE A CUP OF TEA to celebrate your now-working reversing camera :)