In order to use our 2024 OEM Navigation Map Updates, you need to install our Maps Converter software from the supplied USB memory stick

Average time to install: 10 minutes

Items supplied in this kit are:

Maps Converter Software on USB Memory Stick	2024 Map Update SD-Card

All work in this installation takes place inside the car and involves software running from the supplied USB memory stick and replacement of the existing OEM Navigation SD Card.

Map Chooser Software Install

To install the Maps Converter software, the software needs to be loaded via the car's entertainment unit:

a. Turn ON the car's ignition ON (DO NOT press the clutch / brake pedal and do NOT start the car)

b. Insert the supplied USB memory stick into one of the two USB ports in the center console (under the entertainment system)

c. The software will start running on it's own. You will then be presented with a number of screens, some with choices, as shown below:

d. Click YES - GO ON to continue installation. You will then see the following screens:

d. Click on FIAT to use Fiat (original) map updates; or click MAZDA to use our new 2024 map updates. PLEASE ENSURE YOU PICK MAZDA AT THIS STAGE.

e. The Maps Converter software will now switch the car to using MAZDA maps. Please be patient - this process takes a few minutes to complete.

f. Once the Map Conversion has completed, you will see the screen below. Please remove your existing Maps SD Card and insert the one supplied at this time.

g. Finally you will see some more screens informing you that the Map Conversion has completed. Please remove the USB memory stick when instructed and wait for the car's entertainment system to reboot.

You should now be able to use the latest Mazda Map SD-Card. Please open the Navigation application to ensure the system loads correctly.

The rauto-dimming rear view mirror is a direct replacement for the standard rear view mirror, but contains extra wiring which needs to be attached to the car loom. All chnages are reversible.

Average time to install: 1/2 - 1 hour

Items supplied in this kit are:

Auto-dimming rear view mirror	Wiring loom

There are 2 main parts to the rear view mirror installation. These can be broken down into:

1. Adding the wiring into the car
2. Fitting the mirror

1. Adding the wiring to the car

The 124 Spider does not come with the required power feed to the rear view mirror (unless in the USA), so we need to add this in. To do so, the easiest place is to access the wiring in the passenger A-pillar (driver's A-pillar on LHD cars).

a. Pull the A-pillar trim away from the A-pillar near the top of the windscreen (2 hidden plastic clips); then pull the trim upwards and backwards from the rest of the dashboard trim. There is a short speaker cable connected to the A-pillar trim, so be careful here. The A-pillar trim will not immediately come loose as it is held in by a "key piece" of trim, located between the A-pillar, upper & lower dash trims. Gently pull the A-pillar trim rearwards and towards the centre of the car until it releases from the key piece. Use of a small flat head screwdriver can help to remove the red clip.

b. Locate the main wiring loom running up the A-pillar and remove some of the insulation tape covering roughly half way up the A-pillar. You need to locate 2 wires within the loom to provide +12V and GROUND to the rear view mirror. The +12V wire is BROWN / BLACK STRIPE and the GROUND wire is BLACK.

Once located, pull these two wires away from the rest of the loom slightly so you can attach the included wiretaps to them.

c. The supplied wiring loom has a BLACK / RED STRIPE wire and a BLACK wire. The BLACK / RED STRIPE is the +12V wire and the BLACK is the GROUND wire. Attach the two wiretaps to the BROWN / BLACK STRIPE and then plug the BLACK / RED STRIPE into that wire tap. Repeat the same procedure to connect the BLACK wires.

d. Ensure the wire taps and connectors are secure, and run the wires upwards in the A-pillar.

2. Fitting the mirror

To fit the mirror and associated wiring, it is necessary to access the top rail trim above the windscreen. Only the passenger (left hand) side of the trim needs to be loosened to provide enough space to route the wiring. There are a number of steps needed to achieve this, as follows.

a. Lower the roof completely

b. Undo the 2 TORX bolts holding in the LH side roof locating lug. This is located under the LH sun visor. Then remove the single TORX bolt near the centre of the top rail trim on the LH side.

c. With the 3 bolts removed, pull the trim down on the LH side to loosen it from the car.

d. Route the wiring fitted in Step 1 up the LH A-pillar trim and along the top rail trim to roughly the centre of the trim, where the interior light fitting is located.

e. Remove the existing rear view mirror by loostening the TROX bolt holding it to the windscreen, then slide the mirror towards the top of the windscreen to remove it.

f. Route the wiring from the mirror to the middle of the top rail trim, and connect it to the plug run up from the A-pillar trim.

The mirror is now fitted; before putting all the trim back together, check the mirror is functioning correctly by turning the ignition on to number 2 (press the Start button twice WITHOUT pressing the brake / clutch) and ensuring the rear-view mirror's green power light comes on.


Finally, refit all removed trim in the revers order to that in which it was removed.

The reversing camera in the 124 plugs directly into the car's CMU (media centre display). In the Abarth 124, the wiring loom between CMU and boot doesn't exist, so additional cables need to be run to make this connection. No software changes are necessary within the CMU to enable the reversing camera functionality, it is automatically enabled when the CMU detects the camera's presence.

Average time to install: 1 - 2 hours

Items supplied in this kit are:

Reversing camera attached to mounting plate	Foam washer
"Boot-to-body" loom	"Extension" loom
"Piggy-back" loom	*OPTIONAL* "Supplemental Boot" loom

If your kit contains the optional Supplemental Boot loom please ensure you install it as described in part (3-i) below.
If this part is not included in your kit, you can safely ignore this step!

There are 4 main parts to the reversing camera installation. These can be broken down into:

1. Work in the passenger compartment
2. Work in the boot
3. Running the cabling from the CMU to the boot
4. Connecting, testing and putting everything back together

1. Work in the passenger compartment

The camera's wiring loom needs to plug in to the back of the CMU. To access the CMU, it is necessary to remove some parts of the interior trim and dashboard. The trim is mostly held in place with clips and plastic rivets, with one 10mm bolt needing to be removed.

a. Remove the plastic sill cover by pulling it up - it is only held in by plastic clips. Not much force is required and the clips will not break as long as pulled directly upwards.

b. Pull the bottom of the lower door seal rubber off the sill up to the level of the A-pillar trim. This will get removed later but can be left to dangle out the way for now.

c. Having done this, remove the plastic rivet from the side (near the front) of the fusebox cover trim piece in the passenger footwell. Use finger nails or similar to pull the centre of the rivet a few mm out, then wiggle the entire rivet out.

d. Pull the fusebox cover trim out by pulling it straight back towards the passenger seat/ There is a hidden, captive, plastic rivet which needs to be pulled in the correct direction to avoid damaging it.

e. With the fuse cover removed, undo the 10mm bolt holding in the lower dashboard trim.

f. Pull the A-pillar trim away from the A-pillar near the top of the windscreen (a hidden plastic clip); then pull the trim upwards and backwards from the rest of the dashboard trim. There is a short speaker cable connected to the A-pillar trim, so be careful here. The A-pillar trim will not immediately come loose as it is held in by a "key piece" of trim, located between the A-pillar, upper & lower dash trims. Gently pull the A-pillar trim rearwards and towards the centre of the car until it releases from the key piece.

g. Pull the lower dashboard trim upwards and outwards towards the rear of the car. Use the base of the lower trim panel initially and then pull the horizontal section where it stretches across the dash.

Once removed, you can pry the "key piece" to loose, but it may help to use a small flat-head screwdriver to push the plastic clips of this free from the surrounding trim. Be careful not to damage these clips as thy hold everything else solid on re-assembly.

h. The "piano black" (on Abarth) trim piece which sits between the upper and lower dash panels now needs to be removed. This is held in place by some very strong plastic clips so a fair amount of force is required to remove it, but care should be taken to not twist or damage this panel. Start at the thin (door) end of the panel and use fingers or a small flat-head screwdriver to pull the top and bottom edges out, towards the rear of the car. Work along the panel, trying to keep top and bottom from twisting and pull straight back. Disconnect the white electrical connector and place out of the way when removed.

i. The top of the heater control panel needs to be pulled slightly free; this is to give a little more wiggle room for other components. Pull towards the rear of the car until the top clips come loose. You do not need to remove them fully. Likewise pull the trim around the Start/Stop button forwards in line with the heater surround.

j. Pull the top of the instrument cluster surround forward. Concentrate on the passenger side of the cluster surround (i.e. the centre of the car). Again, this only needs to be loosened, not removed completely.

k. Undo the 10mm bolt holding the CMU into the rear of the dash assembly.

Having done so, pull the CMU and the associated trim piece forward to release the CMU. A fair bit of force may be needed here, but be careful not to damage the cluster trim whilst pulling the CMU forward. (this is why we loosened the cluster trim earlier)

l. There is a rubber spacer which may well fall off the back of the CMU when it is removed - make sure you retrieve this and push it back onto it's support underneath the CMU.

m. Unplug the four connectors from the back of the CMU and place it to one side.

2. Work in the Boot

To access the wiring loom locations within the boot, we need to remove most of the interior trim from the boot, and then remove, modify & replace the boot (body) to boot lid (boot) wiring loom. Finally, we will fit the camera in the boot lid. All boot trim is held in with plastic rivets which are easy to remove using fingernails (and which, apart from two, are identical to the one used to hold the fusebox trim in place).

a. Remove the ELEVEN rivets holding the trim to the boot lid and then place the trim aside

b. Remove the FOUR rivets holding the hard plastic boot lock cover (runs across the entire back of the boot) in place; unplug the plug for the boot light, and then pull it forward to remove the cover and set aside. It may be easier to remove if you pull the boot weather seal off the back of the boot aperture

c. Remove the SIX rivets holding the boot floor trim in place and set the trim aside.

d. Remove the SIX rivets holding the front boot trim in place and set aside.

e. Remove the THREE rivets holding the passenger side trim to the boot. Do not forget the rivet behind the previously removed lock cover. Place the trim aside.

f. Remove the FIVE M10 bolts holding the metal fuel line protection plate in place. This makes access to the wiring behind much easier.

g. Unplug the white 8-way connector below the boot to lid loom connection and gently release the base of the boot to lid loom connector by pushing in each side of the plastic plug holding the rubber protector to the boot. Be careful pushing in the sides of this connector as the plastic may be brittle and breaking a clip will prevent the rubber from keeping the boot waterproof.

With the connector removed from the top of the boot feed the lower portion of this loom out through the hole to release it from the car.

h. Unplug the white 4-way connector from the boot lid and gently pry the plastic cable stay rivet out from the lid (use a small flathead screwdriver to help - this cable stay rivet is tight). Then reach inside the boot lid skin to gently push out the clips on the top part of the rubber protector and remove it from the car.

You should now be able to remove this portion of loom from the car completely.

i. Reach inside the lid skin and push out the clips holding the camera blanking plate in place next to the boot release button. This blanking plate is a good fit and a fair amount of force may be needed to remove it. Avoid damaging the boot structure, but it doesn't matter if the blanking plate or foam washer underneath get damaged on removal. This should then leave you with a hole in the boot skin into which the camera can be inserted.

j. Feed the supplied replacement foam washer onto the camera body via the cables and ensure it sits flat against the camera body mounting surface. It may be necessary to slightly stretch the washer to make it fit, but do not tear it. (this washer is slightly thicker than the one which was removed from the camera blank and should be used instead of the original). Then feed the camera's wires through from the outside to the inside of the boot,

and push the camera into position on the boot lid. Allow the cables to dangle within the boot lid at this stage.

k. Feed the 4-pin plug end of the supplied boot-to-body loom through the previously removed boot to lid loom from the lid end of the rubber protector (marked "boot") towards the boot end (marked "body"). Be aware that at the body end of this loom there is a long plastic guide within the rubber protector - the rubber needs to be slid clear of this plastic guide to aid pushing the boot-to-body loom through the rubber protector.

l. At the far body end of the bot to lid loom, there is a tight turn within the plastic guide to which the car's existing loom is taped. Undo the insulation tape to help pushing the 4-pin plug through this plastic guide bend, taking care not to damage it or the plastic guide. When the two looms have been successfully combined, use cable ties or insulating tape to secure the two looms together.

m. Return the altered boot to lid loom to the car - firstly thread the body end connectors and loom through from the outside of the boot to the inside, before gently pushing the body end of the rubber protector back in place.

Having done this, feed the lid end of the loom through from outside to inside of the boot lid (you may need two hands to try feeding and retrieving this part of the loom from within the boot lid skins, then gently push the clips in placer to secure the boot end of the rubber protector. Finally, push the cable clip rivet back into the hole it came from.

n. Re-connect both white (original car 8-way & 4-way) loom plugs back in to the body and boot lid looms.

o. Finally connect the camera loom to the boot-to-body loom (red to red connectors and yellow to yellow connectors) and secure this loom where appropriate within the boot lid, following the existing wiring. Use small cable ties for this. (for now, do not replace any boot lid trim)

3. Running the cabling from the CMU to the boot

The next step is to install the wiring looms required to enable the car to recognise the camera. This work mostly takes place within the car's cabin, with some later in the boot.

a. Plug the piggy-back loom into the corresponding cable unplugged from the CMU in step (1-m) above. It is the smaller of the multi-pin cables and the one which was plugged into the left of the CMU when viewing it as installed in the car.

b. Plug in the 4-pin plug of the extension loom to the 4-pin socket on the piggy-back loom and then route the free end of the extension loom through the holes next to the CMU slot towards the passenger side of the dash. Pull the extension loom through and then route it down the side of the passenger door opening to follow the existing route to the fusebox and lower down to the cable path on the passenger sill.

c. Push the extension loom through the protective cover along the passenger sill until the slack is all near the rear of the passenger seat. (at this point do not fasten any of the extension loom to the dash.

d. Pull out the plastic rivet holding the side trim to the top of the B-post - this rivet is quite stiff so may require some force, but be careful not to loose the small central pin, which on this rivet will come completely out of the rest of the rivet. Push the top side trim upwards gently so that the lower side trim can be removed. Remove the two plastic rivets in the rear of this panel and then simply pull the panel forwards and remove.

e. With the lower side trim removed, it should be possible to trace the route cables take from the cabin to the boot - selotape the end of the extension loom to a flexible but fairly rigid piece of wire (such as a straightened metal coat hanger), ensure the end of the 4-pin plug is protected by the selotape, and then gently push the end through to the boot by sliding the wire just above the existing loom. Take GREAT CARE to avoid damaging the existing loom - do NOT push too hard. You will need to push about 60cm of wire through to the boot before you will be able to easily see it.

f. Moving round to the boot, check you can see the end of the wire, with extension loom attached, and pull through enough to allow you to remove the selotape and extract the wire, leaving the extension loom loose in the boot.

g. The extension loom needs to be routed along the side of, or preferably inside, the white cable channel that's located under the fuel tank pipes.

Getting the cover off this channel can be tricky, so try pushing the extension loom through the channel. If you can't do this, you can simply cable tie the extension loom to the cable channel.

h. The built-in body loom running to the boot (which we disconnected earlier in step (2-g) and reconnected in step (2-n) runs from the back of the cable channel up towards the plug fixing - route the extension loom the same way and secure with cable ties so that the 4-pin socket on the extension loom can easily connect to the 4-pin plug from the boot-to-body loom.

i. If your kit contains the optional Supplemental Body loom, plug it in between the Boot to Body loom and the Extension loom. The 4-pin plugs mean it can only connect one way. 

j. If your kit does not contain the optional loom, ignore the line above; instead simply connect the Body to Boot loom to the Extension loom. Again, the 4-pin plugs mean it is obvious how this connects.

4. Connecting, testing and putting everything back together

Finally, we need to connect all remaining plugs, re-attach the CMU, test functionality and refit the all the interior trims.

From the previous steps, you should have the reversing camera loom installed throughout the car and have from front to back:

1. Piggy-back loom plugged in to one of the car's CMU plugs via a white multi-pin socket

2. Extension loom plugged in to the piggy-back loom via a 4-pin plug / socket

3. Boot-to-body loom plugged in to the extension loom via a 4-pin plug / socket

4. Camera plugged in to boot-to-body loom via red and yellow plugs / sockets

a. First, plug the piggy-back loom in to the CMU, followed by plugging in all remaining car plugs to the CMU (they all only fit in one socket). Do not replace the CMU in the car but balance it so you can test the functionality of the CMU

b. Turn the car's ignition on to position 2 (lights etc. On, but DO NOT start the car) and wait for the CMU to fully boot up. Put the gear lever into reverse and the CMU should swap to the camera view. This should also be accompanied by the normal warning beep.

c. If the CMU does NOT swap to the camera view:

1. Turn the ignition OFF

2. Disconnect the middle multi-plug cable (not the piggy back cable) from the back of the CMU

3. Double check ALL connectors are fully connected. Unplug and re-plug if necessary

4. Wait 5 minutes to ensure the CMU is fully powered down

5. Plug the multi-plug cable back in to the CMU

6. If these steps do not work, contact your retailer for more help

d. Presuming the CMU correctly swapped to show the camera in step (4-b), turn the ignition OFF and continue to rebuild the car's interior.

e. Firstly, ensure the extension loom is secured by cable tie etc. across the lower part of the dash and down past the fusebox.

f. Trim re-assembly is essentially the opposite procedure to dismantling. The first and hardest part is getting the CMU to push back into it's mounting hole correctly. Ensure the cables at the back (especially the piggy-back loom) are not blocking it sliding back, and then push the CMU in horizontally (the angle is quite critical), whilst also making sure it clears the instrument cluster surround, which you may need to lift slightly to help the CMU slide backwards.

g. Once the CMU is firmly back in place (it should click into place) re-insert the M10 bolt which secures it, ensuring the metal bracket is fully home.

h. Push the instrument cluster trim back into position - it pushes down and forwards (towards the windscreen) and will click when each clip re-engages. Run your hands right round the cluster surround to ensure all clips are fully home.

i. Push the clips of the top of the heater controls back home - these may have dropped slightly so may need persuading into their sockets, depending on how far you pulled them out.

j. Re-attach the electrical connector for the hazard light on the piano black trim strip and then start pushing this back in to place. Again, ensure this goes in completely horizontally and push fairly firmly to make sure all the clips fully re-engage.

k. Re-attach the suede lower dash panel - support the larger part above the passenger footwell whilst initially clipping in the end nearest the dashboard. Avoid twisting the panel as you push the clips in; and work along from the middle of the car to the passenger edge. When all clips are secure, push up slightly on the bottom of the lower dash panel whilst re-inserting the M10 bolt above the fusebox.

l. Refit the lower door seal rubber and push it up as high as it seems to want to go. The bend in the rubber and a slight cut out in the door pillar trim will help you locate it. Do not bother pushing the lower part in completely as we'll need to pull this off again in a minute.

m. Re-connect the speaker to it's housing in the A-pillar trim and then retrofit the trim. It slides forward and down at the base of the trim and should re-fit fairly easily. Look at the profile of the clips to help you align this correctly.

n. Push the lower door seal rubber up as high as it now wants to go and ensure the bottom part is NOT attached the door aperture.

o. Re-fit the fusebox cover - this pushes forward into place past the door seal rubber and secures with a plastic rivet and two small built-in clips which sit over and flush to the lower door aperture seam. Re-fit the plastic rivet in the side of the fusebox trim and push the inner part fully home. Finally re-fit the rest of the lower door rubber seal.

p. Re-fit the "key-piece" removed in step (1-f) into the gap between the A-pillar trim and lower dash panel. This piece should clip in fairly easily, but has to be aligned carefully. This piece should lock all the front dashboard trim pieces together.

q. Push the lower side trim (behind the seat) back into position against the back of the door opening, then pop the side trim back over the top of this and re-fit the smaller side trim plastic rivet. Push the centre piece fully home to secure these trim pieces.

r. Refit the sill plastic cover by pushing it down against it's clips. You should now be finished re-fitting trim inside the car, so move to the boot.

s. Replace the metal fuel line protector and re-fit the FIVE M10 bolts securing this to the car.

t. Place the passenger side trim in the boot. ONLY replace the plastic rivet at the very back of the boot (nearest bumper) which will be hidden by the hard plastic boot lock cover when we re-install that.

u. Place the front boot trim in the boot. DO NOT put any plastic rivets back in yet.

v. Place the boot floor trim in the boot. Again, DO NOT put any plastic rivets back in yet.

w. Reconnect the boot light electrical plug, and place the hard plastic boot lock cover back in the car. Re-insert the FOUR plastic rivets securing this piece.

x. Replace all other plastic rivets in all boot trim panels, remembering the TWO plain rivets which sit at the front of the boot floor trim.

y. Hold up the boot lid trim and replace the ELEVEN plastic rivets holding this in place. You should now have replaced all trim in the boot.

All trim pieces should now be back in the car; with all cables connected, secured and tested.
Finally, go and MAKE A CUP OF TEA to celebrate your now-working reversing camera :)

The alcantara door card inserts are installed on your existing door cards and involve their removal, modification & refitting.

Average time to install: 4 hours

Items supplied in this kit are:

Alcantara Door Card Inserts

There are 3 main parts to the Alcantara Door Card Inserts installation. These can be broken down into:
(as both doors are the same, only one side will be shown in the instructions below)

1. Removal of the door cards (both left hand (LH) and right hand (RH)
2. Modification of the door cards, including fitting the Alcantara inserts
3. Refitting the door cards to the car

1. Removal of the door cards

a. Remove the silver door pull insert. This is quite stiff and needs to be pried up from the bottom towards the top, taking care not to damage the surrounding plastic.

b. Remove the smooth plastic trim piece from behind the door handle - the easiest way to do this is to pull it off (gently) from the door hinge end of the door by putting your fingers behind the panel and pulling outwards.

c. Remove the 1x philips / posidrive screw which was concealed by the door handle trim. Remove the 2x philips / posidrive screws holding the door pull in place. Do not try to pull the door pull itself off the door.

d. Starting at the bottom middle, pull out the 8 puh clips holding the lower edge and both sides of the door card in place. Use your fingers to reach between the rubber door seal and the edge of the plastic door card and pull gently outwards. Do not use too much force.

e. Lift the door card upwards to release it from the door. Be careful to NOT move the door card too far away from the door as it is still connected by wiring and cables.

f. The door handle and it's associated cables will likely ping out of the door card whilst you're holding it - this is absolutely fine and is to be expected. If they don't release on their own, grab the interior door handle end of the two cables and pull them gently away from the door card, angling towards the front of the door. The mechanism will the unclip from the door card.

g. Finally unplug the two multi-plug connectors (drivers door) or one multi-plug connector (passenger door) going to the window switch pack in the door card.

2. Modification of the door cards, including fitting the Alcantara inserts

a. Use a flat head screwdriver, or other suitable implement, to push in the clip holding the upper part of the door pull to the rest of the door card

b. Placing one door card on a suitable flat & clean surface, remove the 24 philips-type screws circled below. This will help in seperating the three parts of the door.

c. To allow the parts of the door card to be fully removed, we need to drill or cut two plastic-welded plugs at the lower part of the door card (circled). You may find gentle use of a large drill bit is the easiest way to do this - you can clean up any rough edges afterwards (we will not be replacing these connectors as they are not needed). In the picture below these two plugs have already been drilled and cleaned up aftwerwards.

d. It is now necessary to remove the window switches and their surrounding panel. This is easiest if you remove the switches first by unclipping the four plastic lug-type clips holding each switch body the the door card panel and then removing downwards (away from the face of the switch). Next, the metal clips holding the switch surround to the door card panels need to be removed. These clips are strong and awkward to get at initially, but use patience and small flathead screwdrivers to gently push them out. The window switch surrounds will prevent splitting the door card apart below, so take time and care over this step.

e. You should now be able to seperate the three parts of the door card. The bottom section needs to be twisted slightly to allow the plugs drilled out above to seperate properly from the middle part of the door card. Place the top and bottom sections aside as we only need to concentrate on the middle door card section.

f. Use a flat head screwdriver, or similar, to push out the 5 clips holding the armrest to the middle door card section. You should now have a middle door card section which looks as below:

g. Taking care to ensue you have the correct side, lay the alcantara fabric on top of the middle door card section. Each alcantara panel is cut slightly over-size, so you may need to trim it slightly to fit your door card. This is done to allow for small inaccuracies in measurements or placement of the alcantara.

h. Using the lower doorpull hole and cutouts for the armrest to allign the alcantara panel, ensure there is sufficient fabric to cover all the existing vynl. Refit the armrest to help hold the alcantara panel in place whilst you check and align it fully.

i. The next step is to glue the alcantara panel to the door card. Make sure the door card vynl is completely clean and free from any contaminents (grease etc.) We recommend using a spray contact fabric adhesive and gluing the panel in 2 parts - this way you can hold the panel in place with the armrest; glue to top part of the alcantara panel, then, when that is dry (allow at least 30 minutes), remove the armrest and glue the lower part of the alcantara panel.

Items to note whilst doing this:
i. You need to ensure that the returns on the back-side of the door panel part are glued along with the alcantara - this is essential to ensure the alcantara sticks to all parts of the vynl.
ii. Practice stretching the alcantara round the tight cornersat the top of the door panel so you are certain how these will glue.
iii. You need to be very careful not to get glue where it is not wanted.
iv. When glueing the lower part of the alcantara to the door panel, great care is needed to avoid any creases being left in the alcantara.
v. Most contact glues give you only one chance to get the glueing right - please take car, and if you're not sure, take a break and practice with waste material such as waste paper.

j. With all the glueing complete, leave the panel on a flat, clean surface for at least 2 hours to allow the glue to fully cure.

k. Finally we need to re-assemble the 3 parts of the door card, in the reverse of how we removed them. You need to fit all three parts together before the screws can be put back in, but you might find it useful to try fitting the upper and lower edge screws to help keep everything together whilst you screw in the others.

3. Refitting the doorcards to the car

a. Refitting the door cards is the reversal of removal. Firstly plug the multi-plug connectors for the windows back in to their relevant sockets.

b. Re-hang the door cards onto the door by placing the top of the door card above the top of the door metl and pushing down gently. Push in the plastic push rivets around the door sides and bottom, and then re-insert the three screws holding the door panel in place.

c. Finally, replace the two trim pieces you removed from the door card at the beginning.

Your installation is now complete.

[UPDATED] The window controller V2 is installed within the drivers side door, behind the door card. The unit is self contained and doesn't require any modifications to existing parts or wiring

Average time to install: 30 minutes

Items supplied in this kit are:

Window controller box	Window switch loom
Remote control loom

All work in this installation takes place inside the car and involves fitting items within the drivers side door. No wiring or component modifications are necessary for this installation.

Work in the Car

To fit the window controler v2, we first need to remove the drivers door card, whcih is the plastic internal facing of the door.

a. Remove the silver door pull insert. This is quite stiff and needs to be pried up from the bottom towards the top, taking care not to damage the surrounding plastic.

b. Remove the smooth plastic trim piece from behind the door handle - the easiest way to do this is to pull it off (gently) from the door hinge end of the door by putting your fingers behind the panel and pulling outwards.

c. Remove the 1x philips / posidrive screw which was concealed by the door handle trim. Remove the 2x philips / posidrive screws holding the door pull in place. Do not try to pull the door pull itself off the door.

d. Starting at the bottom middle, pull out the 8 puh clips holding the lower edge and both sides of the door card in place. Use your fingers to reach between the rubber door seal and the edge of the plastic door card and pull gently outwards. Do not use too much force.

e. Lift the door card upwards to release it from the door. Be careful to NOT move the door card too far away from the door as it is still connected by wiring and cables.

f. The door handle and it's associated cables will likely ping out of the door card whilst you're holding it - this is absolutely fine and is to be expected. If they don't release on their own, grab the interior door handle end of the two cables and pull them gently away from the door card, angling towards the front of the door. The mechanism will the unclip from the door card.

g. Finally unplug the two multi-plug connectors going to the window switch pack in the door card. Now place the door card aside, being careful not to scratch or damage it.

h. Plug the black multiplug of the window switch loom into the window controller box and then plug the two white multiplugs on that loom into the window switch pack in the door card. Use the supplied sticky-back velcro strip to stick the window controller box to the inside of the door card.

i. Unplug the white multiplug connector from the door body (it may help to release the clip holding the plug in place if you press it with a small screwdriver). Now tap into the GREEN and YELLOW wires on this plug using the wiretap connectors on the remote control loom. The RED wire of the remote control loom needs to connect to the GREEN wire on the multiplug connector; and the BLACK wire of the remote control loom needs to connect to the YELLOW wire on the multiplug connector; as shown below. When the wires have been connected, plug the multiplug connector back in to the socket in the door.

j. Route the long part of the remote control loom (with the two pin plug attached) along the existing door wiring towards where the window swtich plugs are dangling from the door.

k. All the wiring installation is now complete. The last step is to reconnect the door's window plugs and the new remote loom plug into their respective sockets in the window switch loom. Each plug can only go in one socket and can only go one way around.

l. Finally re-hand the door card onto the door by placing the top of the door card above the top of the door metl and pushing down gently. Do NOT fully re-attach the door card until we have tested everything works correctly.

m. You may find it easier to close the drivers door from the outside and then get in the passenger door for this next bit as you can't pull on the drivers door card at this time. Once in the car with both doors closed, turn the ignition on by pressing the start button twice (there's no need to start the engine) and follow the following initiation instructions precisely. This is very important to ensure the windows operate correctly.

   1) Press and hold the window down button for the drivers side window until the window is fully down.

2) Press and hold the window up button for the drivers side window until the window is fully closed. Hold the button in the up position for at least 2 seconds once the window is closed.

3) Press and hold the window down button for the drivers side window until the window is fully down.

4) Press and hold the window up button for the drivers side window until the window is fully closed. Hold the button in the up position for at least 2 seconds once the window is closed.

n. Now we need to program the window controller with our preference for when the roof is opened. The available options are to have the windows fully open when the roof is opened; or to have the windows fully close when the roof is opened. To do this follow the following instructions.

   1) Unlock the roof and pull partially back. The windows will drop part way.

2) Using the drivers side window switch, press the window DOWN button momentarily if you want to have the windows OPEN fully when the roof is opened; or press the window UP button momentarily if you want the windows to CLOSE fully when the roof is opened.

3) Push the roof fully open and ensure it latches in place. The window controller will now remember your preference and fully open or close the windows.

4) You can now close the roof and should see the windows go all the way back up.

o. The last test we need to perform is locking and unlocking the car. Turn the ignition off and exit the car, closing both doors fully. Now lock the car with your keyfob and ensure both doors lock fully. (use both door handles to make sure they are locked).

p. Presuming the above steps all worked correctly, everything is now fully programmed and tested. We can now put the door card fully back together. The door card should already be hanging in the correct place, resting on the top of the door inner. Ensure the door card is pushed vertically down as far as it wants to go, then working around the edges of the door card, push each of the 8 push clips back into it's locating hole. You may need to gently wiggle a couple of the clips with your fingers to get them to engage.

q. Replace the three philips / posidrive screws which secure the door card to the door. Ensure the shorter screw goes in the hole behind the door handle and the two longer ones go in the door pull.

r. Finally, replace the two trim pieces you removed from the door card at the beginning.

Your installation is now complete.

The airbag warning panel replacement is installed in place of the existing warning panel. It is accessed by dismantling some of the lower dash panels.

Average time to install: 10 - 30 minutes

Items supplied in this kit are:

Airbag warning panel replacement

All work in this installation takes place inside the car and involves items in the centre console. You will need a large philips type screwdriver, a small flat head screwdriver and a T10 Torx screwdriver.

Work in the Car

To fit the airbag warning panel replacement, we need to remove the airbag warning panel from the car and then replace the display screen within it.

a. Gently squeeze the outside edges of the trim piece surrounding the airbag warning panel and pull it forward towards you. There are clips on each side of the inside of the trim piece which will release, allowing you to fully remove the trim.

b. There are two screws holding the airbag warning panel into the car (one each side of the panel) - use the large philips screwdriver to remove these, which will then allow you to pull the airbag warning panel away from it's location in the car.


c. There is an electrical connector on the back right hand side of the airbag warning panel as you look at it. Pull the airbag warning panel away form the car and use the small flat head screwdriver to help release the clip holding the connector in. It may feel quite tight on the wiring, but there is sufficient spare wire to be able to release the connector without too much trouble, Once released, you will be able to fully remove the airbag warning panel.

d. There are two T10 Torx screws at the back of the airbag warning panel - use the T10 screwdriver to remove them.

e. Unclip the three clips on the bottom and three cips on the top of the airbag warning panel. This will allow the two halves of the panel to come apart, allowing access to the warning screen inside.


f. Use the small flat head screwdriver or your finger to help release the central clip holding the airbag panel into it's surround. It should release fairly easily.

g. Place the replacement airbag panel in the housing and ensure it sits tight against the front of the airbag panel cover. Push the panel so it clips into place.


h. Re-assemble the warning panel, making sure the six clips connect back together, and replace the two Torx screws.


i. Finally re-install the airbag warning panel in the car. Installation is the exact opposite of removal, consisting of re-connecting the electrical connector, screwing the airbag panel back into place, and finally replacing the trim surround. When installing the trim, make sure there are no bulges at the rear of the trim piece, as sometimes the clips can be pushed out wide under the lower dash. Keep your hands on each side of the trim piece whilst installing it to avoid this happening.

The wireless charger is fitted underneath the rubber part of the centre console shelf, in front of the gearstick.

Average time to install: 30 - 60 minutes

Items supplied in this kit are:

Wireless charger coil	USB cable
Car USB adaptor

All work in this installation takes place inside the car and involves items in the centre console. For best effect (to avoid any noticeable bumps under the rubber mat), it is advisable to modify one of the centre console panels using files, sanders etc. This is not completely necessary for the installation to work if you do not feel comfortable doing this.

Work in the Car

To fit the wireless charger, we first need to remove parts of the centre console trim. We will then optionally modify a hidden part of the trim; fit the wireless charging loop; install wiring; andf re-assemble the centre console.

a. Remove the gearlever knob by unscrewing in an anti-clockwise direction

b. Pull up on the silver part of the gearlever surround by gripping the inside edge of this part on each side, where the gearlever gator meets the surround. You have to pull relatively hard, but eventually the trim will release. If the front of the entertainment contol panel lifts up, merely push it down again whilst holding up the gearlever surround. When both clips are free, remove the surround panel by pulling gently up and backwards.

c. Turn this trim piece over and remove the rubber mat by uncliping the five rubber tangs securing it to the front of the gearlever surround. There is a piece of double sided tape holding the curved rear edge to the gearlever surround - gently pull the rubber away from this tape until it is completely removed.

d. If you are going to modify the centre console panels to allow for the best fit, it is necessary to remove the front plastic panel from the gearlever surround. This is held on by two plastic (white) clips - gently pry first one side then the other apart until you have the front piece seperated from the gearlever surround.

e. Using a Dremel or similar device, remove some of the plastic on this front panel piece so that it somewhat resembles the picture below. You do not need to remove quite as much material as shown in this test piece; you are merely trying to create the 3 or 4 mm clearance needed between the plastic base (the piece you are modifying) and the rubber mat which sits on top of it

f. If you are not happy modifying this panel (as shown below); you can sfely ignore these steps and proceed to the next step.

g. Re-connect the two panals which we previously disassembled, so that they look something like the picture to the right. This is the last step of bodywork modification.

h. We now need to install the wireless charging coil on top of the front plastic panel, ensuring that the coil is clear of the forward central rectangular hole in this panel (which is where one of the rubber mat's clips fits). Place the coil in place and ensure it clears this hole, as indicated below.

 
i. Once the coil is in place, secure it with a piece of double sided tape below it; then refit the rubber mat over the top of the  plastic. Ensure the wires from the coil pass either side of the rubber mat's middle fixing, and then do up the rest of the rubber clips. Finally attach the circuuit board to the underside of the whole assembly.

j. The coil is now fitted to the centre console panel, so all that remains is to run a USB power cable from the centre console to the closest power source. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways, but I chose to route the cable under the centre console front trim so that it exits in the passenger side footwell next to the car's built in auxilery power socket (cigarette lighter socket). I then plugged a car  socket to USB converter into this socket to provide the needed USB power connection.

k. Finally, re-install the centre console shelf into the car, ensuring you plug in the USB cable at both ends, then turn the ignition on and check that your phone starts charging as expected.

If you have any problems with this installation, please see our FAQ articles relating to it.